Biking Beartooth Pass

Every year, thousands of bicyclists spin up the Beartooth Pass south of Red Lodge. And, every year they have to compete on the narrow, winding roadway with a stream of cars, trucks, motorcycles and motor homes.

But there are two or three weekends a year when cyclists are the kings of the road.

In that short sweet spot between the highway department clearing snow from the high-mountain pass and the gates opening to motorized traffic, cyclists pedal right up the middle of the road like they own the place.

“It’s the best time to go,” said Vivian Plough of Cody, Wyo. “It’s kind of a social event, you see so many of your cycling friends and everyone’s smiling and having fun.”

There are days when it’s warmer, she said. “But at least for a little while we don’t have to worry about fighting for the shoulder with cars and RVs.”

On a recent Saturday, at least 20 riders started in Red Lodge in a group organized by Billings cyclist Dale Sekora. Along the route, as many as 20 others were riding the pass on their own.

Those who start in Red Lodge share the road for about 12 miles to the gate. Other cyclists start at the gate.

From there on up to the state line and beyond, the only sound is shifting gears, a little wind, some laughter and a lot of panting. Altogether, the route rises more than 5,000 feet in elevation over about 25 miles.

At the gate, getting ready separately for the ride are Philippe Nandet, a French expat living in Billings, and Paul Foster, a professor of Slavic languages at a university in Macedonia who summers in Red Lodge.

It’s Nandet’s first time pedaling up the pass.

“I’ve been up in a car, yes, but never on a bike,” he said.

He’s ridden Tour de France routes and said the Beartooth Pass compares in both challenge and beauty.

“I’ve been looking forward to this,” he said.

Foster has run up the pass, but it’s his first time going up on two wheels, too.

“I read about this ride on the Internet while I was in Macedonia and thought, ‘I’ve got to do it,’” he said.

The day is cool with the temperature in the mid-40s as the group starts to spread out, everyone riding at their own pace. The air is clear and crisp, and sometimes the riders stop to rest and chat, in the middle of the road, because they can.

Above Vista Point, there is fresh snow in the trees, although the road remains clear and dry.

Among those spinning to the top is John Flynn, a gray-bearded 66-year-old from Red Lodge who runs a company making quilt frames. The company has grown as the popularity of quilting has increased with young people and Flynn travels the world teaching classes.

He started cycling a year ago to get fit. Each time out, he would cycle up the pass as far as he could.

“I kept going up and up, further and further each time,” he said. “And, now, here I am on top.”

Curt Fleck, who described his age as “a few days from 60,” lives in Red Lodge and pedals the pass once or twice a week. And it shows. He was traveling with a much younger group, some of them racers, and was setting a tough, fast pace.

He said the traffic on the pass can be frustrating, although drivers generally are cautious and respectful of cyclists.

“But, it’s nice to have the whole shoulder to yourself,” he said. “And, there’s no time of the year when it’s prettier.”

On top, near the state line, a gray storm blows in quickly, sending the temperature into a nose dive. There are flurries of light snow.

You can tell the riders who have experience with the pass. They’re the ones who looked funny hauling bulky jackets and gloves up the highway for the quick, cold ride down. One guy even pulls on wool socks and a face mask. Those who didn’t plan have to shiver through it. With no traffic to worry about, a few riders push 50 mph or more on the descent. Others just coast, prolonging the sightseeing.

Back at the gate, Nandet is among those shivering.

“Cold. Wow,” he said. “But, I will do it again.”

Foster, the Macedonian professor, feels like he’s missing some fingers.

“I had to stop a couple of times on the way down. I lost the feeling in my hands,” he said. “But it was a beautiful ride. I felt euphoric on top. I can’t wait to ride it again.”